The horn of Africa is a long way from most people's idea of a holiday destination; for us that is part of what makes it so exciting. This tour is an incredible journey of discovery through some of the most remote and isolated places on earth, a voyage through an inhospitable yet breathtaking landscape more akin to another planet than our own. Starting and ending in the tiny country of Djibouti we explore the spectacular Lac Abbe, a vast salt lake with tall limestone chimneys belching gas into the air, and then cross into Ethiopia to Lake Afrera and traverse the dreaded Danakil Depression, home to the formidable Afar people. We hike up the volcano of Erta Ale and marvel at its lava lake, visit the hot springs at Dallol - the hottest place on earth - and look out for camel caravans carting blocks of salt across the desert. Returning to Djibouti we visit Lac Assal and the remarkable Foret du Day National Park before finishing in the cosmopolitan capital, rubbing shoulders with nomads from the countryside and traders from Arabia. There are few places in the world that can compete with this region for real adventure.
Day 1 - Djibouti
Arrive in Djibouti. Depending on arrival, you may have a chance to
explore the capital. Overnight Hotel Plein Ciel or similar.
Djibouti
Tucked away in the Horn of Africa, Djibouti is one of the smallest
countries on the continent and receives very few visitors. A French
colony until 1977, it was one of the last African nations to gain
independence. Djibouti’s main asset is its port, providing an outlet
for landlocked Ethiopia to send goods across the Red Sea and Indian
Ocean, and Djibouti Town is the country’s liveliest hub, although in a
country with a traditionally nomadic population, that’s not saying
much. The capital is a fascinating mix of African, Asian, Arab and
European influences and is divided into an African and European quarter
– it is small enough to explore by walking around and although there
are few traditional sights the main appeal is soaking up the atmosphere
of this cosmopolitan little city, with French legionnaires mixing with
nomadic Afar tribesmen, and women dressed in outrageously colourful
robes. Djibouti Town has an allure that is hard to put your finger on.
Day 2 – Lac Abbe
Drive to Lac Abbe, a salt lake fringed with incredible scenery, where
limestone chimneys belch sulphur. This landscape is so other-worldly
that the classic science fiction film ‘Planet of the Apes’ was filmed
here. Overnight camping. (BLD)
Lac Abbe
There are few places in the world like Lac Abbe – it is one of the most
desolate places on our planet. Bordering Ethiopia and Djibouti, this
vast salt lake is surrounded by hundreds of limestone chimneys, some up
to 50 metres high which spew sulphurous gas into the air, and its
shores are inhabited by the nomadic Afar people who use the lake to
gather salt. The lake is also renowned for its birdlife, with
flamingoes, pelicans and ibis among other species to be found here. It
is difficult to put into words such awe-inspiring scenery, and it is
unlikely that you will ever have seen anything like this before.
Day 3 – Logiya
We cross into Ethiopia through the small village of Galafi, and meet
our Afar escort for our journey into the Danakil Depression. Overnight
Hotel Nazret or similar. (BLD)
Day 4 – Afrera Lake
After an early breakfast, we leave the only road in this part of
Ethiopia (connecting Addis with the ports in Djibouti) and start the
journey to Afrera Lake – it is 5-8 hours four wheel drive through the
desert. The Afrera salt lake is home to local Afar people harvesting
salt flakes using traditional methods, and in the lake is the worlds
lowest lying island in the world, Frachetti island (-102 m). Overnight
camping. (BLD)
The Danakil Depression
The formidable Danakil Depression is known as one of the most
inhospitable places on earth, with searing temperatures and little
flora or fauna. It is the lowest place on the planet, created when the
earth’s crust collapsed and water flooded in, only to evaporate in the
fierce sun leaving enormous salt flats and salt lakes. These are
important for the local Afar people, who collect this important
commodity to sell at markets. Geologically, it is one of the most
active places on the planet, and volcanic cones and lava spewing from
the ground in places. To travel here feels like you are travelling to
the ends of the earth, a remote, hostile, volcanic desert with
spectacular landscapes where few western travellers have been before,
and our journey of exploration allows us to do more than just scratch
the surface, taking us to areas that define the very essence of ‘off
the beaten track’. It has also been home to a number of important
fossil discoveries, giving clues to the earliest ancestors of humans.
The Danakil today is populated by the nomadic Afar people, a group once
renowned for their hostility towards outsiders. In times gone by, Afar
men could only be considered adults once they had killed another man,
and are reputed to have worn their dead enemies’ testicles around their
necks. They are thankfully no longer as fierce as they once were, and
to meet them is to meet one of the most isolated ethnic groups on our
planet.
Day 5 – Erta Ale
Drive to Mount Erta Ale through the Afar desert – Erta Ala is the
highlight of this expedition, and is one of only 5 permanent lava lakes
in the world. We hike 3 hours to the rim, while our gear and water is
carried by camels - we wait for sunset and one of the world's most
spectacular sights when the red lava in the crater lights up the sky.
Overnight camping. (BLD)
Erta Ale hike
The gently climbing hike itself follows interesting lava formations
(lava and pahoehoe lava fields, lava tubes, hornitos, sand deposits,
rare vegetation) until we stand on the rim of the caldera. An easy
descend brings us to the floor of the caldera and after 10 minutes, we
stand on the active pit crater containing the boiling lava lake.
Day 6 –Ahmedela
Descend from the crater and drive to Ahmedela along unmarked sandy
tracks, passing Afar settelements along the way. Ahmedela is the base
for exploring the salt mines and seeing the salt workers and camel
caravans. Overnight camping at Ahmedela. (BLD)
Day 7 – Dallol
Drive to Dalol and along the way enjoy views of the small hills and
colourful hot spring in several places. These hot springs are composed
of different minerals along with sulphurs and potash and create
spectacular colours. Dallol is renowned as being the hottest inhabited
place on earth; between 1960 and 1966 an average annual temperature of
34°C (94°F) was recorded. You are likely to see the long
'caravane de sel' – camel trains loaded with salt. Later we drive back
to Ahmedela and our camp. Overnight camping. (BLD)
Days 8-9 – Afrera -
Logiya
We spend two days driving through some of the most desolate, but
stunning, scenery on earth, hoping to meet Afar tribesmen along the way
and stopping at any points of interest. On Day 9 we re-enter
‘civilisation’ and the small town of Logiya. Day 8 camping, Day 9
overnight Hotel Nazret or similar. (BLD)
Day 10 – Lac Assal
and surroundings
We re-enter Djibouti and visit Lac Assal – a crater lake and the lowest
point in Africa (-150 m) as well as the most saline body of water in
the world (up to 40%). It is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular
natural phenomena on the continent. in Africa. Overnight camping. (BLD)
Lac Assal
Surrounded by dormant volcanoes, Lac Assal is an impressive sight; the
salt flats contrast with the blacl lava fields and there are numerous
large crystal formations dotted around. The lake is fed by hot saline
springs making it unique among salt lakes, as all others are fed by
streams and rivers.
Day 11 –
Ardoukôba volcano and Foret du Day National Park
Drive to the Ardoukôba volcano with great views of Lac Assal, and
further north to visit Foret du Day national park. A remarkable forest
in an otherwise desert country – with monkeys, warthogs, leopards and
various other animals. Overnight in traditional huts in the park. (BLD)
Foret du Day National
Park
This tiny national park, just 3.2 sq. km, is at odds with the rest of
the country, the remains of an ancient forest that once spread across
the region but has now ceased to exist with the changes in climate over
many thousands of years. The park is located at 1500m above sea level,
and cooler temperatures as well as mist from the clouds mean that a
variety of species can be found here, including the endemic Djibouti
francolin, one of the rarest birds in the world.
Day 12 – Djibouti Town
Return to Djibouti Town. We visit the local Marché Central
(market), and after a hot shower at the hotel, we can splurge on French
cuisine and reflect upon our adventure. Overnight Hotel Plein Ciel or
similar. (BLD)
Day 13 – Djibouti Town
Tour ends. (B)
