This trek to the peak of 5137 m Ararat
mountain in eastern Anatolia, was suggested by my colleague, Gunnar
from Hamburg, and at a Christmas party, we inspired another colleague,
Niels to join us. Further more my friend Frede said ‘Yes’, just by
naming the mountain. Ararat is one of the most beautiful mountains in
the world. Free standing and cone shaped. A marvel. Ararat is a trekking mountain, and you
will need Crampons, hiking sticks, a good sleeping bag, and clothes for
cold weather. Ice Axe and rope is not needed.
Travel route
Århus - Copenhagen (train, bus [not intended], taxi [not
intended]) - Istanbul (Pegasus airlines)
-
Van
(Pegasus)
-
Dogubayazit
(minivan)
-
Mt.
Ararat
(foot)
Costs
Flight Copenhagen - Van cost about 150€ with Pegasus Airlines, return
with Turkish Airlines
about 300€. I returned with Turkish Airlines from
Van to Istanbul (60€) and from Istanbul through Riga to Copenhagen with
AirBaltic for about 150€. The
trek, everything included costs 550€.
The Chinese expedition claiming to
have found the Ark - http://www.noahsarksearch.net/eng/ - and their video.
This trip was not to find Noah's Ark, but the story about the Chinese
is interesting - how did several wooden rooms get all the way up below
the glacier? The
location is a secret, but Henri Nissen has deducted that it must be on
the north side, just below the Parrot glacier. I spoke with Kemal, our
guide, about this location and he also agreed it was where they found
it - near the wooden beam find by Navarre in the fifties. Suggestion for a packing list:http://www.bergnews.com/touren/expeditionen/ararat/ararat-infos-tipps.php
Relevant
books
Eastern
Anatolia
is
described in the Lonely Planet for Turkey, and also
(a few pages) in the Middle East (also Lonely Planet). All the history
and research about Noah and Noah's Ark, the book from Henri Nissen,
'Noah's Ark Uncovered' (revised in 2010) is a good source.
Saturday 28.8 Departure?
The flight was not until
01:30 in the morning – a shit-flight, but dead cheap. And now we were
not going to make it because of a Tamil driver [no offence] doing 40-50
km/h through the dark tertiary roads of backcountry Sealand. Just an
hour earlier we were in the light speed train between Århus and
Copenhagen, telling the tales of the mountain we were going to scale in
the next days. Then – a electric cable had fallen down somewhere on
Sealand, and the different trains were going into the stations on both
sides in snail-tempo to offload the passengers. We rushed out and into
the soon arriving bus. This one was from Stamholmen (somewhere in
Copenhagen), and it was obvious that the train company had called all
bus companies, asking if any of their drivers were returning from their
job, and would do some extra work. So this Tamil was now in Ringsted
for the first time in his life, and was directed to go to Roskilde
through villages called ‘Borup’ and ‘Viby’ – never heard of it. Now,
after 1½ hours we had not reached Roskilde yet – only 30 km from
Ringsted as the highway runs. We were discussing what to do, and as the
time was now 23:30 – and we actually had to be at the airport at this
time. Arriving, we run towards the trains, and I spotted a taxi on the
other side of the street – Frede, Niels and I jumped in – how long does
it take to go to the airport. Normally 35 minutes for the 40 kilometers
– but should we try to do it in 25? OK! Doing 160 most of the motorway,
we did it in 24 minutes. Niels gave the driver an extra 100 kr,
stating: I normally don’t do this! We ran in, and were the only ones
(last ones?) at
the Pegasus check in counter. We were on the way.
Sunday 29.8
After only 3 hours
flight (and sleep) from Copenhagen to Gokcen airport, we had breakfast
and quietly woke up. We met Gunnar after domestic security – had
arrived the day before from Berlin, also with Pegasus. The flight to
Van in eastern Anatolia at 9:55, so we had another 1½ hours of
sleep. Kemal Ceven, our tour guide was in the airport to pick us up,
and we were quickly onwards with four other Germans and one Swiss guy,
who had arrived the day before (had not found Van so interesting).
Northwards between the Van lake and Iran to the east, crossed a 2500 m
pass and after two hours in Dogubayazit at the foot of Mt. Ararat.
Dusty, but nice. After 20 minutes in Hotel Nuh (Noah), we went for
lunch. A place with really good kebab. Walked around for half an hour.
It was Ramadan, so most was closed (Frede did manage to do a carpet
deal, paying 50L for a carpet with a price tag of 45L).
At sunset the main pedestrian street started to wake up, and we managed
a quick tea before going to bed.
Monday 30.8. Dogubayazit (2000 m) – Camp 1
(3300 m)
Slept for 11
hours and
the small headache was gone. Breakfast on the 4th floor of the hotel –
super views towards Ararat. We found out that beside us 4 there was 7
more, all German speaking. We left at 9:45 with their richly decorated
expedition bus. 11:00 the bus could not make it further up the
mountain, and we started to walk in high spirit and good mood. Quietly
and slowly. Jeeps could go somewhat further. At 12:00 we had the first
stop at Kemal’s sister for tea and lunch break. Still quiet and easy,
steadily climbing, good paths. Two of the Germans sounded out of breath
and fell behind, but one of the guides followed them. Clouds over the
mountain top, but perfect weather and temperature to hike. We reached
Camp 1 at 16:00 where the tents were ready and so was the tea. Niels,
Gunnar and I walked on for another 200 altitude meters (3500 m), 40
minutes and had a break. At that time it was 17:00, and a team of
Russians came down. We thought they had been up to Camp 2 to
acclimatize, but no, they had been to the peak and it had not been good
– they had had altitude sickness and had not slept the night before in
camp 2 because of the cold, so when they left at 02:00 in the morning,
it had been really hard up the hill, and only one of them who had taken
Diamox, had been OK. At the peak, and 10 hours to walk down to where we
were now. Niels and I immediately took a Diamox. Diamox help the water
balance within the cells, and I have heard that it helps as if you are
1000 meters lower than you actually are. Gunnar usually don't take
them, and also had no problems at all this time. 20
minutes to return, great dinner, beautiful sunset and star filled night
and happy trekkers. What a nice day. I froze tonight – not terrible,
but enough to discover that my -5 degrees sleeping bag, probably not
was that good anymore. The others had no problem. Two pairs of woolen
underwear tomorrow night.
Tuesday 31.8. Camp 1 (3300m) - Camp2 (4130m)
Again a wonderful
morning, but again clouds around the mountain top at 08:30. We were all
great, except one of us who had diarrhea. Breakfast in the sun and the
temperature was quickly in the twenties. It was the plan to go to camp
2 and return to sleep in camp 1 to acclimatize, but Kemal thought it
was going to be bad weather Thursday, so we should skip the return to
camp 1 – I have him suspected for saving a day… Out of camp at 09:15,
up, up, up through a ravine. Somewhat tough at the beginning, but after
a break after an hour, it went quite well. Suddenly we could see the
little Ararat cone to the east – we were at approximately the same
altitude as the peak. Our group was 11 + 6 from a parallel group – and
a French/Russian/American group which also came to camp 2 today. Again
today we met some Russians coming down, and the answer to the question
'was it good' was somewhat avoiding and 'cold'. Both these and those
from yesterday did not seem to have prepared well. We talked with Kemal
about the two trekkers who were kidnapped a couple of years ago. 'They
were with a Turkish expedition', it would never happened with a Kurdish
– and if so, it would be over his body. He did not think it would be a
good idea for PKK's cause. It was in Camp 1 it happened, by the way.
Everybody is 'older' and after talking to Gunnar, I found out I was the
youngest with my 'only' 42 years… It seems that mountain climbing
starts after the children have left the house.
At the high-camp at 12:15, after 3 hours and half a hour of break.
Quiet and nicely. Camp 2 is really beautifully set on a ridge with
views of east, south and west. Our place was like sheep-folds,
surrounded by stone walls. We went 100 meters further up to try the
crampons on a small glacier – and the part here is quite steep with
loose gravel on the path. Every 5 minutes a loud stone-slide is heard
from the ravine to the east, big stones crashing down. It now quickly
got colder, but the sunset with rays towards little Ararat was
spectacular. Dinner was tomato soup and then noodles and boiled lamb
chops – nice. Went to sleep at 19:00
Wednesday 1.9. Camp 2 (4150 m) – Mt.
Ararat (5137 m) – Camp 1 (3300 m)
Wake up call at 01:00,
and a bowl of soup and a cup of tea later (02:15), we were on the way.
The two other groups were already on the ridge, and the lights from
their head-lamps lighting up towards the star filled light was a
beautiful sight. All were eager and no headaches, altitude sickness or
anything, and all had slept. One of the members chose not to take the
last leg today. And the climb was very strenuous over loose gravel and
rocks. Up, up, up, very steep and only light from the head lamps. After
3 hours several of us were low on strength, but we overcame the
problems at the western glacier at 05:30 from where the peak loomed a
few hundred meters above. The southern route climbs as far as possible
on stones since the glacier here on the south side is just 3-400
meters, where I think it must be at least 1000 meters on the north
side. The glacier was nice and though it also was somewhat hard to walk
with crampons, it was much better than the gravel. The two other teams
came down at this point and all looked like they had had a great peak
time. We reached the top at 06:40 with fine views 360 degrees, and not
a cloud in sight. It was the first point where we could see towards the
east, but there was not so much to see since the east peak (which is
somewhat lower) blocked the view. Towards the west was the huge western
glacier which we had crossed. Yerevan could easily be seen towards the
North-West. The other glaciers further down could not be seen since the
top is quite ball-shaped. But it was super beautiful. First we took a
lot of pictures – with Dannebrog, our company flag, etc. It was very
cold (-10 – 15?) and quite windy here at the top, the sky was blue and
the fingers very cold. We were there only for 20 minutes, and then most
could not stand the cold any more. Frede and I stayed until the last
guide didn’t want to wait any more, though I would have wanted to say
longer and enjoy being 'on the top of the world'. I did a GPS mark, and
it said 5140m with +/- 5 meters accuracy, so I believe the 5137 m and
not the 5167 m seen sometimes.
We started to return at 07:00, and it only took 20 minutes to cross the
glacier this time. And then again really tough and not-funny down the
gravel path – hard to the legs, and you had to concentrate a lot not to
fall. Finally we reached camp 2 about 10:30 and we relaxed a bit and
packed the tents. Then on to camp 1 (1½ hours). Today the peak
was not enveloped in clouds in the morning, as the other days. After
returning to the camp all of us had a well deserved nap. We had been
lucky today, and thought it had been a great day – unlike the Russians
we met the other days.
Thursday 2.9. Camp 1 – Dogubayazit
All of us had a great
sleep and one of the Germans took the initiative to collect tips, and
Gunnar did the work. Most chipped in about 50€ as the trekking bureau
suggest on their homepage. It has handed over to Kemal when most of the
other involved were present (horse drivers, cook, guides), and he had
agreed to split the tips.
After breakfast, we headed down in quick pace, and it was soon hot (but
not uncomfortable). It was kind of 'good bye' to the mountain. A quick
cup of tea at the sister's camp. Back at the hotel, we went to lunch at
the usual place, and I quickly ordered '2 cokes' to replace the water
we had had the last days. Next was a visit to a Hamam – Turkish Bath.
Just what we needed. Steam bath, hot tub, cold tub and a stone slap
where we were massaged, soaped in and scrubbed. After a quick change at
the hotel, we were invited to a Kurdish dinner with Kemal's family. So
all 17 of us in the living room, with the food spread out on the floor.
The cook from the trek, Murat, had rejoined to help, which meant the
food was
great. Back home, Frede visited the first Barber-shop, Niels and Gunnar
went to the now full pedestrian street for tea and ice, and I visited
an internet café.
Friday 3.9. Dogubayazit – the fellowship
splits.
After breakfast, we went
to the palace overlooking the city. It was hot. Very beautiful and from
1680-1715. It takes about half an hour to browse through the castle.
After returning to the hotel, we were going in different directions.
The others went with Kemal to Van where they should stay overnight and
return the next day.
I was going to do the vacation-part of my trip, now the hard work was
over. So the following link will bring you to
Nakhchivan/Azerbaijan
part of my trip. It includes information from the north side of Ararat
and the little visited enclave of Nakhchivan. Press
here
to
continue...
Monday 6.9 (Nakhchivan)
- Dogubayazit - Van
The
last
mini-bus
to Van for today was at 14:00, so it was fine. It is
a long trip to Van – 2:45 hours. I found a (totally crazy) taxi driver
who took me to Akdamar Hotel.
100
TL.
Fine
room and lots of activities going on outside. Only thing
was that it was quite warm and there was no ventilation or A/C. Walked,
read, Pizza and I finally found a great place to have coffee (this is
Tea-country) – great – Simit Sarayi, one block to the right of the
hotel.
I woke up around 01:00 in the morning – and there was still many people
outside in the street and shops that were open.
Sunday 7.9. Van – Århus
Surprisingly
expensive
taxi
the 5 km to the
airport (22TL) – it had a meter, but I must have been cheated somehow.
Hmm.
It was a pleasure to fly out of Van – all guys, rejoice – Angelie Jolie
has a part time job as a security / passport controller in the
departure lounge. After take off, Ararat could actually be seen to the
north for some time, with it’s peak ‘peaking’ through the high clouds.
In Istanbul Ataturk airport at noon, got my luggage, changed to
international and checked in with AirBaltic.
Continued
15:05
to Riga,
arrived 18:00, super quick change of planes, passport control and in
the air again 18:35 on time AND (to my surprise), I even got my
backpack with me. Impressing. In Copenhagen 19:00 and my train half an
hour later – everything on schedule.